.

Will have a browse through some settings and see if there is anything hindering this. Everything works for me but it might be my admin status or personal settings on my pc and phone

BATOOH wrote:

 Can anybody else open them?

Nah, it says "The selected attachment does not exist anymore."

It's on the GTO facebook page Box.

I can see the pic so you've got it sorted. 

Anyway, looks to me like as the torque comes up you get to the peak and the wheels start spinning on the rollers, that's why it's levelled off with wavy lines.
The good part is that it'll be making more than 420 horses.
You'll be going back again?

i can see all your other attachments except your last one, and if steve can see it and box cant then i have no idea whats wrong. sounds like a local setting issue to me 
Admin panel look all in order, ive logged in using another normal account and can see them all except your last...

perhaps consider using a picture uploading site like http://www.iforce.co.nz/, get an account on there and upload as many as you want. Then use the in-post picture embedding using the links that site gives you.
 granted its not as straight forward as uploading as attachment here, but it works 100% of the time for everyone unless the site goes down

magn1t wrote:

I can see the pic so you've got it sorted. 

Anyway, looks to me like as the torque comes up you get to the peak and the wheels start spinning on the rollers, that's why it's levelled off with wavy lines.
The good part is that it'll be making more than 420 horses.
You'll be going back again?

Yes I can see his latest post with the chart but still can't see previous two posts with attachment. anyway I'm not being negative Steve but he said it was an older dyno either 2002 or 2004. If he tunes his own cars on it at 450 hp and 650 hp and I saw another picture of an R33 on the wall with a big thanks written on it - and I race that car- I asked the hp of that one and he said 550. So he must be right in that his Dyno has this quirk. I also notice on my latest chart above, that peak Torque is stated as much higher than the graphed Tq line???
Anyway tip for anybody that gets Dyno work done. reset your trip meter so that you know how many kms it did during dynoing. this one did 40 kilometres and used a quarter a tank of gas, still got the 75l tank, which seems to equate. I hope I get further than Mike Tall did in the Nevis 1200 yesterday on TV. he wound the boost up and detonated it within 10 metres from the start line!. Will I be going back- hopefully not, the car is definitely idling and revving from a cold start better so maybe the IAT is an improvement. I haven't got any events in the next few months- they have all been cancelled because of the plague. I have been told of another tuner/dyno shop elsewhere that is supposed to be an excellent tuner so that may factor into my future. So here I am pondering my next move. Race car testing day or consolidate/refine brake pedal setup or bite the bullet and do any of these three things. 1. alter rear turbo air intake as advised by tuner. he doesn't like the 1.3 metres of flexi pipe feeding it, said they don't like sucking through long tubes.2. redo the FMIC by turning it upside down and shortening/altering position of I/C pipes in and out of it to a high level thus freeing up space for better oil cooler position and potential gearbox oil cooler.3. drop out rear subframe and swiss cheese it (within the stated rules of Motorsport) for weight reduction. Or do I paint the house?

As far as the wheelspin goes, any experienced dyno operator knows that when they do that you strap them down tighter and let some air out of the tyres. Doing that gives more grip on the rollers but also increases the drivetrain loss.....because most of the drivetrain loss has always been the tyres.

Edit, paint the house, a house is an investment, a car is a waste of money.
Winter is coming up soon.

magn1t wrote:

As far as the wheelspin goes, any experienced dyno operator knows that when they do that you strap them down tighter and let some air out of the tyres. Doing that gives more grip on the rollers but also increases the drivetrain loss.....because most of the drivetrain loss has always been the tyres.

Edit, paint the house, a house is an investment, a car is a waste of money.
Winter is coming up soon.

Looks like I will be having a month off! Maybe I can do the house and the car? maybe the Govt might even give me 5 hundy a week in compo, now that would be perfect. I will be a able to do a race car track day.

Ya know... I bin looking at that Dyno chart of mine and I'm thinking... the power line/plot is good and steep and it hits 53/5400 and it all goes to bits. What stops it at that rpm level. I got the zorst done, I got the 15g  H turbo, the injectors, I got most things covered. could it be that that rear turbo is sucking so hard on that 1.2/3 metre flexi coiled intake tube that it's folding it inwards during extreme suction. Ahh insane thought. I wonder if the yanks might have any insight. Another INSANE thought. Lets see what they say.... in due course.

'cos it's got wheelspin on the rollers.

It's the torque line you should be looking at because the dyno measures torque and calculates power from torque and RPM.

At 4200, that's when it started slipping, the torque went dead flat up to 5250 where the real torque is dropping, the tyres started gripping again and made the wavy lines, the actual engine revs might have increased or dropped a bit when it does that because the RPM scale comes from the rollers not the car. 
I'd be more worried about that little dip just below 4000, it shouldn't do that either. If it's going to knock, that's where it'll happen.
Do you get a graph of boost too?

What a bunch of clowns, charge real money for what? half a job? Not what most would think of as professional.
Go post on a yank forum, the answers are always interesting.

Spoke to another Dyno house recommended by a chap who has a 700hp 350z with the 4wd running gear from a Nissan of some description. Just to get some ideas on what you say above and for my own curiousity. An interesting item raised in the discussion was that of 5 and 6 speed trans. which the guy I was talking to knew about. he asked me if I had considered changing the rear and front diffs to say 4:1 instead of 3.545 :1  Now that's an interesting possibility. how would you do that? and Box apparently that Link file I have is little and I can mail it to you. Haven't opened it yet to see what the file size is etc but will do this as time permits/lockdown abates.

Was going to ask?
What gear were you in.
5 speed?
Just that first time for me on a dyno, the inputted ratio was wrong, second time too.
It should go to 7000 and no more unless modified.

Now that you've got a link you should be able to get datalogs on a laptop?....it's hard to keep up with technology . wifi to your smartphone? I don't have one, I hate them. Was one of the first to get one when they first arrived. In fact I was shown one before it ever happened when I visited head office. 
second gear....idle speed, running speed, start log, floor it, all you need is rpm vs time. stop at 7000 rpm. Maybe you broke the speed limit. OK private test track only.
That's the dyno. You know the weight, gear ratio, tyre size, you can google the cd for a bit better accuracy........you can do it again and again ..for free apart from fuel.

Magnit it's got Gear 4 on the dyno chart.

I got enough Tech problems without getting even more. Lightning strike on December 10 (I think) took out two TV's, Wireless router, Sat dish LNBR, one ADSL filter and Network Interface card in the Desktop.

Got an expert tuner to evaluate the Link File and the Dyno chart and he says "Had a look at that tune. Hard to comment really. Kind of looks okish but without testing the car it's only a guees"  "Theres definitely ways to improve it and get some more from it without going too crazy".

So that means (buggered if I know why this is in red) he doesn't see an issue mid range like you say Steve, and the funny wheelspin like peaks and troughs don't rate a mention.  anyway there is an event coming on 20 June and that will give me a chance to test it. Buggered If I'm going to pay $120 for a race car track day, especially when it's Level 2 lockdown and I would be alone and there would probably be 50 other guys there doin it too.. may as well pay $160ish for a pursuit sprint.

Nice to know there's more in it. Conservative huh! we shall see.

Car went well, had to dial back the EBC from 80% to 70% keep it under 20psi. More powerful than when I raced it without the LINK ECU in 2018. Unfortunately forgot to reapply the engine cooling shrouds on each side of the lower engine and  didn't fill in the front bumper to intercooler gap. Was gonna do it then just forgot. This made it run hot. Brakes not good.

Anyway what has developed with the brakes is that I have isolated the soft pedal to the front left Calliper. I've taken this calliper and the two front rotors to Pitstop to check out. subsequently the right front rotor is warped. Didn't test the left. so thats it out with them and in with some DBA heat treated kangaroo paw rotors. cost a small fortune but it's time. waiting on the Calliper news.

Oh well back to the old OEM  brake setup for the near term. At least I will have some brakes!!  Of more importance is the upcoming sealed motorkhana (cone racing) and the standing quarter at the end of this month. Whilst you don't need brakes for a standing qtr it's good to have them even in first gear for the cone race. It's a big trucking yard which means it will be a fast course too. I want this one, I was second last time. same as the standing quarter. 11.9 was my best I reckon I've got a near late 10 second coming- well I hope so.

So from here the 6 speed upgrade will take place around xmas. Then test it and get seat time all going well it's  hit the start line in May next year at my favourite haunt with 421 hp and 6 speed to do it with. So from there I'm thinking it's time for the TD05H's after mid may next year. And I'm hoping that a power upgrade won't take me 12 months like the currently failed brake upgrade! 

Ahhh Upgrades. The bane of my Life. Like Microsoft really.

Well now I have brakes courtesy of the old OEM setup. sh** they're good too! Thats because the diamante/galant or whatever Brake Proportioning valve suited to non ABS is now deleted and in it's place is a Willwood Brake Prop valve... Got one leak though and it's on the Prop valve. F it. I'm not messing with this again before Sunday--- that's if we race in Level 2. If we hit Level 3 I just want to say F it again and again.

Hopefully that alert level doesn't escalate before Sunday!

actually it has in some way.

My Wifey is a bit ..straight. So I had to get the trailer Wof'd. well that didn't turn out too well cause I got the WOF and when returning home that trailers brakes started smoking badly.... well by badly I mean FFFFFUUUUUCCCCK WHAT the hell is going on'''''

ssssstory short I'm going to Trojan to buy a  set of brake pads, two wheel bearing seal sets and a new piston for a Calliper. Event cancelled. But.

I am going to have a crack with the 380.  I just can't help myself.

I am so desperate to race I will race the tow PIG,

That's awesome, those 380s go like the clappers so should be a bit of fun. Price your trailer bits through BNT first, they sell aftermarket parts (I think CM Trailer Parts?), usually 30-50% less than the Trojan stuff. The quality has been the same or better than Trojan from what I've experienced. If your caliper pistons are made of that horrible bakelite plastic sh** then replace both sides....ideally get steel pistons if they're available. 

No 380 racing in the weekend. got there and it was a truck car park asphalted and very muddy but cleaned off to a minor extent and dry so very - Rally like - dusty and slippery. Fantastic 4wd track and if I had the GTO down there I reckon I would have got him (Lotus 7- He won last time and I got second.) So he won again and a mini moke got 2nd. Trailer parts cost me $113.97. 

Do you guys know if the manifolds off an NA GTO are the same as the Turbo ones? Yes I see your T/Me listing Box. 15 hundy is a little outta my comfort level!

working on my car. going to get away from the 0.85mm fuel pump test wire that powers my bosch 044 and find the 1.25mm B-L wire that it (the 0.85) connects too. you would think the test wire joins to the 1.25 somewhere in the engine bay but it doesn't it heads inside and it bloody changes from Black to Black with two silver slashes. Nowhere near what my diagram shows. I'm still running the FP relay and FP resistor in stock setup. I know it works and I figure it can't hurt the pumps.

Also will be changing the PCV? is it called engine breather away from my turbo intake like what it was when it was stock, you know front left of rear head the pipe goes into the back of the MAF collector moulding where the intake vacuum could suck all the sh** outta that pipe. Apparently high performance setups don't like that as oil vapour can cause detonation. so reroute pcv Hose into a bottle. And I'm gonna put a circuit switch in on the feed wire to my coils. Safety switch. back left hand side of bonnet to turn ignition off from outside of car. (hope I don't ever need that). Then next event is on sunday week. Standing qtr.

BATOOH wrote:

Do you guys know if the manifolds off an NA GTO are the same as the Turbo ones? 

They're not. Oh I was digging through my spares the other day and I came across something that you might be interested in - a pretty much new Bosch knock sensor and mounting stud that you can use with your Link. I can't remember if you're running a knock sensor or not.

BATOOH wrote:

working on my car. going to get away from the 0.85mm fuel pump test wire that powers my bosch 044 and find the 1.25mm B-L wire that it (the 0.85) connects too

It's about pressure regulation.
In order to have good regulation you need to have a thin feed wire.
If you go to a thick feed wire you'll lose regulation but gain in over all flow.
Surely that's why you splash out on the $$$$$$$$$$$ to get superior control from an aftermarket computer that uses SD instead of MAF and then you want to mess up the fuel pressure...............which messes up the AFR.